From Terroir to Table: How Stevo Đokmarković is Elevating Montenegro’s Wine Culture Through Story, Expertise, and Experience
Some wines speak through tannins, others through terroir – but the best speak through the people who understand them. Montenegro, though small in size, hides powerful stories in its glasses of wine and plates of heritage. These stories, told through flavours and aromas, increasingly have one main narrator – Stevo Đokmarković. A professor of restaurant management, a recognized sommelier, and an F&B manager with experience extending beyond the region, Đokmarković is a man who doesn’t just know wine – he lives it. As co‐founder of the organization Tavulin, together with Ivan Đurović, he has united passion for wine, gastronomic knowledge, and the desire to present Montenegro to the world as it truly is—primal, diverse, and unforgettable. In this interview for our magazine, Đokmarković reveals why wine is far more than a drink, what the smile of satisfaction looks like after a perfect pairing, and why Montenegrin terroir has the potential to become the next star on the world wine stage.
Mr. Đokmarković, you are considered one of the most experienced sommeliers in Montenegro, and you are a welcome guest at numerous domestic and regional wine salons. What makes the world of wine so special, and where does your interest in sommelier work come from?
My interest in sommelier work – and in wine more broadly – stems from a curiosity about the sensory experience and the cultural dimension of wine. I realized this as a hospitality (restaurant management) student. I was fascinated by the complexity of flavours and aromas, and by the ways wine communicates with food. However, it was only later, through hands-on work in restaurants, that I truly grasped that “wine‐food connection.” My specialization in Italy had a big influence. There I worked with serious hospitality professionals and sommeliers. Somehow I “felt” the wines there – watching people enjoy each bite of food, each sip of wine… and then the smile. That’s the real magic! When a sip of wine brings a smile to the person drinking it. The world of wine is special because it unites land, climate, tradition, knowledge, and emotion. No wine is the same, no experience repeatable. Wine is a living matter that demands respect, expertise, and empathy – for the producer, the guest, and the very moment in which it’s served. It’s this dynamism and constant need to learn that make this vocation not just a profession, but a way of life. I’ve been fortunate to do what I love. As an F&B manager in restaurants and as a sommelier, every day is a challenge – both with food and with wine.
Together with Mr. Ivan Đurović, you run the organization “Tavulin,” and so far you have hosted dozens of successful Fine & Dine evenings. How did it all begin?
“Tavulin“ was born from the desire to create a space where knowledge, experience, and a passion for wine and gastronomy could find a common language. It all started quite spontaneously. Ivan is highly skilled in gastronomy – well-versed in culinary terminology and food processing techniques. Beyond that, he loves and knows wine excellently. Since Ivan and I share similar values when it comes to quality, authenticity, and education, from that shared enthusiasm arose the idea to organize evenings that would be more than just simple foodand-wine pairings. Our “Fine & Dine” evenings are conceived as educational-gastronomic experiences, where every detail has its purpose: from the selection of wines and dishes to the atmosphere, stories, and presentation. So far, we’ve organized dozens of such events, each an opportunity to promote various wines – different styles, young wines, and older vintages – from a range of wineries (Old World, New World). We also promote local wineries because we want to elevate the wine culture in our country. At our events we welcome guests who are wine connoisseurs, guests who love wine, and guests who want to learn how to drink wine – or, as I like to say, how to enjoy wine. That’s why the Tavulin concept is broad: anyone can find their favorite bottle, try a new bite, learn something, and, at the same time, have a great time. We know this because our guests are always smiling throughout the tasting.
Data indicate that over the past ten years there has been a true expansion of small wineries in Montenegro, which means that winemaking has become a very profitable occupation—even for Montenegrin entrepreneurs. In your opinion, how can domestic wine producers improve their competitiveness on the global market?
I’m delighted by the fact that more and more small wineries are investing in quality and identity. This is a clear sign that Montenegro’s wine scene is professionalizing and that local producers are increasingly thinking seriously about market positioning. However, the path to competitiveness on the international stage requires a serious strategic approach. The first step is consistency in quality – but also a willingness to adopt modern standards, from production technology to visual brand identity. Then comes education: understanding markets, communicating with customers, attending trade fairs, pairing with gastronomy, and collaborating with restaurants and sommeliers. Also, what I consider essential is nurturing authenticity. The global market is saturated with generic wines. Our strength lies in character -in varieties like Vranac, Kratošija, Čubrica, Žižak, Lisica (Lisičina), Krstač… as well as in our microclimates and in the stories behind every bottle.
Montenegro has a rich gastronomic tradition, as well as potential for developing eno-gastronomic tourism. In what ways can we further enhance the value of authentic domestic products and experiences?
Montenegro is a gastronomic gem that is still waiting to be fully recognized on the global stage. We have exceptional local ingredients, ancient recipes, and, most importantly, people who nurture knowledge through generations. My experience, gained through many years working in hospitality, specifically in restaurants, tells me that in order to truly value the authenticity we have, it is necessary to create a sustainable model that will connect tradition with modern tourism. It requires the collaboration of all stakeholders – from small producers and restaurateurs who are, at the same time, the most important link, to tourist organizations and educational institutions. Eno-gastronomic tourism must become a strategic direction. This means creating specialized tours, festivals, educational workshops, as well as developing domestic brands with clearly defined identities. Today’s guest is not seeking luxury at any cost; they seek an experience that has soul. That is my opinion, and I know that Montenegro holds an authentic advantage here. The fundamental and most important thing is that we must know how to wisely and professionally present this, without room for mistakes. Let every next sip be a story in itself!